Should i download auto iso

I usually prefer a blown out background Cazillo: Please, share, why your pictures with those high ISO do not look grainy? It is easy to blame the gear, I know, there are better cameras, but I suspect that in my case, I am the one doing something wrong. Thank you. I also have pro bodies and pro glass, plus using Adobe Lightroom to edit my photos helps. All of these factors allow me to use higher iso and still have a minimal amount of noise. Your T2I is a better sensor than my XS. If I am not mistaken, it is the same sensor as the 7D, and I have had images that look fine at , and even look O.

My opinion is you can push your ISO more than you think. You should be able to use and not think twice. Better to push the ISO and capture an image than not take the picture at all, because you are worried about noise. When in doubt, convert later to black and white. My two cents, for what its worth. A-ISO can be a very helpful setting when working under pressure. You do not always have the time to set up aperture, shuterspeed and ISO.

Unless you take pics as the ones shown above, yes you have time, you are working in a "controlled" environment. Working outside as say a press-photograp her, doing weddings in my crappy weather country, doing fast indoor sports in changing light situations.

Then A-ISO can be a big help. If you have the time to setup it all in manual, go for it. But we do not all work the same way and shoot the same things. Capturing the shot you need, or your paying client needs is what makes you a good photographer, not the way you get to that point.

Why do Americans drive automatics? Cause they can't drive stick shifts, is that bad? No just different In Aperture mode, Auto ISO only lifts itself enough so that if possible the shutter speed becomes high enough that you shouldn't get camera shake blurring your photos. That's great, unless you're shooting a moving subject ie people, wildlife, sport, or virtually anything except still-life and landscapes , in which case your subjects will often still come out blurry because the shutter speed that Auto ISO enabled was only just fast enough to prevent camera shake, but often nothing like fast high enough to freeze a fast moving subject!

Also, what happens if you are shooting a stationary scene and your camera is on a tripod so you're quite happy for a slow shutter speed? Auto ISO isn't aware of this, so it'll still usually crank itself up to give you a nice fast hand-holdable photo possibly with a fair amount of ISO noise even though you'd much rather it stayed on a low, noise-free ISO.

It can't know the shutter speed you actually require, and so it'll often either lift itself way too high even when you had a tripod and were happy for the photo to be slow, or, more commonly, it'll only lift it high enough to prevent camera shake, when you needed a much faster shutter speed to freeze your subject!

Its important not to get stuck in the comfort zone and try, rediscover your camera settings and how they influence what you shoot without them getting in a way. Sounds like you had fun in Berlin! This site uses Akismet to reduce spam. Learn how your comment data is processed. Additional menu Twitter Facebook Instagram. Or…it could make or break a picture in days gone by.

We have reached somewhat of a unique time in the history of photography in that ISO is, to some degree, no longer relevant in the same way that aperture and shutter speed still are. While I certainly would not let my camera choose the aperture and shutter speed for most of my shots, I have all but abandoned my misgivings about Auto ISO, and now almost always let the camera choose for me.

As a photographer it has not been an easy leap for me to make, but it has been incredibly liberating, and I think it could be for you too. A tack-sharp picture I shot at ISO with minimal digital noise.

My first real digital camera, not counting a few point-and-shoot models I had in the early part of the previous decade, was a Nikon D One thing it did not do so well was high ISO values, specifically anything past I could shoot at in a pinch, but going all the way up to resulted in pictures that were a muddy mess and , its maximum possible value, was an unmitigated disaster. This trained me to use the following thought process in virtually all shooting situations:.

Even my old D could produce some fine images, though things quickly went south above ISO Needless to say, it was challenging. Why do the newer cameras even offer such high ISOs. At what ISO setting does the noise start to make the image unusable?

Thank you for commenting! In addition to noise and loss of sharpness the overall dynamic range of the file diminishes, shadows get compressed, highlights get blown, and color can take some odd turns.

That said when does it get unusable? That is a question only you can answer and it depends on a number of variables. It you want to test what you think it might be I recommend setting up a shot that you might find yourself needing to take in low light settings.

Once you are set up, simply keep on cranking up the ISO and shoot some frames at each setting. When you download them view them in the final application and typical size you will use them such as: on the web, in a slide show, making prints. Hi Denise, it depends on the camera. For high end Nikon or Sony users, the results are even better!

Full frame cameras tend to have better high ISO performance than crop sensor cameras. Great examples of using the Shutter Priority mode to capture movement with the constantly changing shadows and light. I will now use this — I have been using the Aperture Priority mode most of the time because of the changing light conditions and neglected photo opportunities because of the movement of the subject.